JPEG: They are essentially set up to store as many images on the memory card as possible.
TIFF: These file formats are usually uncompressed, and as a result offer the opportunity for extensive post-processing.
RAW: Raw files are compressed using a process that retains all of the information originally captured.
DNG: This file format, created by Adobe, is an attempt to create a standard raw file format across all manufacturers and cameras.
PNG: The strength of PNGs are that they are compressed in a lossless format, and so retain all the digital detail.
GIF: GIF files are that they can only contain a maximum of 256 colors, and therefore are not the best choice for photos, but rather images with a limited color palette.
BMP: BMPs are large file sizes as color data is saved in each individual pixel in the image without any compression.
PSD: PSD files are that it allows for manipulation on specific individual layers, rather than on the main image itself.
I watched photographer’s compete against each other to see who had the best photos overrall. The photos were to be taken with good energy to make the photos even better. Each round the photographer’s were to take different photos with different cameras. The photographer’s were being eliminated one by one every round. My thoughts on being a photographer is that you have to put much details/potential to your photos. Being a photographer takes a lot of skill especially when it’s competitive photography. Photographer’s always have a meaning behind their photos.
Automatic Mode: Auto mode tells your camera to use it’s best judgement to select shutter speed, aperture, ISO, white balance, focus and flash to take the best shot that it can. This mode will give you nice results in many shooting conditions, however you need to keep in mind that you’re not telling your camera any extra information about the type of shot you’re taking so it will be ‘guessing’ as to what you want.
Portrait Mode: Portrait mode works best when you’re photographing a single subject so get in close enough to your subject (either by zooming in or walking closer) so that your photographing the head and shoulders of them). Also if you’re shooting into the sun you might want to trigger your flash to add a little light onto their face.
Marco Mode: Macro mode lets you move your closer into your subject to take a close up picture. Different digital cameras will have macro modes with different capabilities including different focusing distances (usually between 2-10cm for point and shoot cameras).
Landscape Mode: This mode is almost the exact opposite of portrait mode in that it sets the camera up with a small aperture (large number) to make sure as much of the scene you’re photographing will be in focus as possible (ie it give you a large depth of field). It’s therefore ideal for capturing shots of wide scenes, particularly those with. points of interest at different distances from the camera.
Sports Mode: It is ideal for photographing any moving objects including people playing sports, pets, cars, wildlife etc. Sports mode attempts to freeze the action by increasing the shutter speed.
Night Mode: Night mode (a technique also called ‘slow shutter sync’) is for shooting in low light situations and sets your camera to use a longer shutter speed to help capture details of the background but it also fires off a flash to illuminate the foreground (and subject). If you use this mode for a ‘serious’ or well balanced shot you should use a tripod or your background will be blurred.
Movie Mode: This mode extends your digital camera from just capturing still images to capturing moving ones. Most new digital cameras these days come with a movie mode that records both video but also sound.
Aperture Priority Mode (A or AV): This mode is really a semi-automatic (or semi-manual) mode where you choose the aperture and where your camera chooses the other settings (shutter speed, white balance, ISO etc) so as to ensure you have a well balanced exposure. Aperture priority mode is useful when you’re looking to control the depth of field in a shot (usually a stationary object where you don’t need to control shutter speed).
Shutter Priority Mode (S or TV): Shutter priority is very similar to aperture priority mode but is the mode where you select a shutter speed and the camera then chooses all of the other settings. You would use this mode where you want to control over shutter speed (obviously).
Program Mode (P): Some digital cameras have this priority mode in addition to auto mode (in a few cameras Program mode IS full Auto mode. In those cameras that have both, Program mode is similar to Auto but gives you a little more control over some other features including flash, white balance, ISO etc.
Manual Mode: In this mode you have full control over your camera and need to think about all settings including shutter speed, aperture, ISO, white balance, flash etc. It gives you the flexibility to set your shots up as you wish.
Reflection: Conceptual means pertaining to concepts or to the forming of concepts. Another definition of conceptual is something having to do with the mind, or with mental concepts or the philosophical or imaginary ideas. An example of conceptual is when you formulate an abstract philosophy to explain the world which cannot be proven or seen. This photo represents me because I love to play football. Football is one of my favorite sports and I hope to be in the NFL one day. Being in the NFL is one of my biggest dreams. I have really high hopes my dream will come true. I myself have been playing football ever since I was a little kid. That photo may also represent that I love to play sports. Playing sports is one of my hobbies. I am attempting to share to my viewer’s what one of my dreams are. This is all I can think of, I know it’s not 300-500 words, but this is all I got. Hope this is fine.
Favorite photo of Cindy Sherman:
- All DSLR systems offer a dizzying selection of lenses for their cameras.
- These range from fisheyes that give a 180° field of view, to telephoto lenses up to 800mm or more.
- You’ve got zooms, primes, macro, super telephoto, and of course, tilt-shift lenses as well.
- Less expensive lenses will generally have variable apertures, meaning as you zoom, the maximum aperture gets smaller.
- More expensive lenses have a fixed aperture.
- Wide angles give a wide expansive view, and when used correctly, can wrap you in the scene.
- The primary mistake made by new photographers is to use wide angles incorrectly- by not being close enough, having no interest in the foreground, or by trying to include too much in the scene.
- Wide angles are also handy in tight areas, like small rooms, cars, caves, etc.
- Standard lenses tend to range from about 35mm up to around 85mm.
- Lenses in the standard zoom range will cover moderate wide angles- typically 24mm to 35mm, to moderate telephoto lengths- around 70mm and up to about 105mm.
- Prime lenses are lenses that are just one focal length.
- Telephoto zooms allow one to stand back a little when the subject isn’t quite as approachable, or when your subject might be feeling overwhelmed by the presence of the camera.
- Telephoto lenses compress distance, making everything appear closer, as opposed to wide angles which distort perspective and make things look further away.
- Faster telephoto lenses have larger maximum apertures.
- A “fast” lens is usually one that has an aperture of f/4, f/2.8 or larger.
- If you really want to shoot like the pros, you’ll want a 300mm f/4, or 300mm f/2.8 or 400mm f/2.8.
- Too slow a shutter speed will result in motion blur.
- Typically, AT LEAST 1/500 to 1/1000 shutter speed is the minimum.
- Using these longer lenses can be challenging to track movement, so it becomes much easier if the subject is coming directly at you, rather than trying to track movement parallel to the camera.
- As always, remember that a lens is just another tool on the camera; it’s up to the photographer to make it work.
For many cameras, depth of field is the distance between the nearest and the farthest objects that are in acceptably sharp focus in an image. The depth of field can be calculated based on focal length, distance to subject, the acceptable circle of confusion size, and aperture. A particular depth of field may be chosen for technical or artistic purposes. Limitations of depth of field can sometimes be overcome with various techniques/equipment. Depth of field is influenced by other factors too.
Depth of field is controlled by changing the aperture setting on your camera. Several factors determine the “look” of your photos. Composition is the most obvious factor, but camera focus and depth of field are also very important. They can change the entire atmosphere and emphasis of the photo. Lenses can only focus at a single point. There is always a certain amount in front and behind the focus point which is acceptably sharp.